Ehretia sp.

I have a large specimen, approximately 1 1/2 in in diameter, which is kept indoors.  It has recently acquired a problem which has been identified as oyster scale. I have treated it with ultra thin oil and insecticides, however, they return two days after treatments. 75% of the leaves are now gone.  There is some new growth, but it does not keep up with the old leaf loss. Can anyone help me? 

Thank you for the helpful guidelines for my Fukien Tea.  I recently purchased my bonsai and had no idea how to care for it.  I am delighted to have found such simple and helpful instructions.

I am now able to nurture my new bonsai to a long and healthy life!

Thanks again.
Sylvia

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Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 13:41:47 -0500
From: "Matthew L. Ward" 

Keep up the good work! I'll send you info on my Chamaecyparis, 
Eugenia, Ficus, Malpighia and .... Hey wait! Do you have 
a FAQ for Fukien Tea?!?!?! ("Carmona microphylla" or "Ehretia buxifolia")?

Would you like one? And please, since this is a compliation from many online
rec.arts.bonsai postings, give the whole group credit.

Anyhow, as I learn more, I'll email you and you can add it to the FAQ.


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Fukien Tea
---------------------

Carmona microphylla or Ehretia buxifolia

Native to southern China, the Fukien tea is a large shrub or small tree
which lends itself very nicely to bonsai because of its slow compact
growth habit. Three varieties are commonly seen, referred to simply as
the small, medium, and large leaf Fukien teas. Small white flowers are
produced in the spring, which may be followed by berries that ripen
from green to red.

This is an excellent indoor plant. The only caution seems to be that spider
mites find this plant delicious and will attack it over other, nearby, bonsai. 

Basic care
---------------------

Fukien teas prefer bright light but should be protected from hot
summer sun. They should not be exposed to temperatures below 60
degrees F (15 degrees C). In winter, put the tree in full light
(bulb or south facing) but keep out of drafts. There does not 
appear to be the need for a dormant, cooled-down phase, so around
the year growth and be expected with sufficent (12+ hours) light.

Watering
---------------------

Water daily throughout the growing season, keeping soil continuously
moist. Reduce watering frequency in the winter but do not allow soil
to become dry. With a 1:1:1 of chicken grit, loam and pine bark, it 
normally has to be watered weekly. Use a toothpick to determine soil
moisture.

Fertilizing
---------------------

Fertilize every two weeks from spring through fall. Reduce fertilizing
to every four to six weeks in the winter. Any good general purpose (10:10:10)
water soluble fertilizer is acceptable, Miracid is *not* recommended.

Shaping (Pruning & wiring)
---------------------------

Prune all new growth to three or four leaves per branch once seven or
eight leaves have formed. Although the clip and grow method of
training is usually preferred with Fukien teas, woody branches may be
wired at any time. Defoligation is not recommended, leaf size (already 
less than 1 cm) does not appear to decrease.

Notes:
---------------------

The Tea will commonly  drop all its leaves if underwatered or otherwise 
stressed. Water well once, then don't rewater until budding occurs.

WARNING!!!
---------------------

Insects may infest your Fukien tea from time to time.  Always use the 
mildest insecticide known to kill the type of insect present but *never* 
use DIAZINON on a Fukien tea, it will kill the tree.

Insecticidal soap works well on aphids and spider mites. Spider mites are
very common. If in a greenhouse, courtyard try Phytoseiulus persimilis, 
Neoseiulus californicus or Mesoseiulus longipes spider mite predators.

---------------------------------------------------------------------
Matthew Ward - Motorola Digital Systems Division, End to End Solutions - 
1441 West Shure Drive, Arlington Heights, IL. 60004 U.S.A.             -
------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: RickBonsai@aol.com
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 1996 13:56:42 -0400

My experiences with Fukien Tea differ somewhat from the information you
posted:

>Lighting: Likes a bright position (1000 Lux), but only about an
>hour of direct sunlight daily.

Mine get direct sun all morning.

>Temperature: Keep between 60-72F in winter.  In the summer,
>protect from extreme heat.  Ehretia does not like draughts.

Fukiens love the heat, this is when they will grow wild, bloom and berry.
 Mine have been to subjected to occasional dips in temperature into the low
40'sF with no ill effects. When a freeze warning is issued, I move them into
an unheated garage and then back outside when the cold temperatures have
passed (generally a day or two).

>Watering: Keep well watered, reducing watering only slightly in
>winter.  Never allow Ehretia to stand in water, or allow the
>soil to dry out completely.  Frequent misting will discourage
>spider mites.

Fukiens like to be watered in moderation, neither too dry nor too wet.
 Frequent misting can encourage mealy bugs.

>Feeding:  Every two weeks during growth, every four-six weeks in
>winter.  Use bonsai food or half strength plant food.  Do NOT
>use Miracid.  Fukien tea does not like to be overfed; Lesniewicz
>suggests watering well before feeding to avoid root burn.

Mine are fertilized every week during the growing season and receive a dose
of Miracid about every 4-6 weeks during that time.

>Repotting: Every 2-3 years, in early spring. Reduce water after
>root pruning.  Bottom heat helps stimulate new root growth.  Use
>basic soil mix.

Repot only during warm weather.  I guess this could be ignored if grown
indoors but don't know.


Any information in this post may be used in the Tree Care FAQ, as you deem
appropriate.

Rick
S-most, Tx

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From: RickBonsai@aol.com
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 1996 13:56:38 -0400

Here's some information on another Ehretia, Ehretia anacua:

Natural growth and appearance:  15-40' with a straight, fluted trunk having
thick, furrowed dark brown bark.  The leaves are rounded, dark green, and
extremely rough, like sandpaper.  The tree is listed as evergreen but I
colder temperatures will cause them to shed their 3" leaves.  Depending on
rainfall, the tree will flower, with clusters of white blooms, from early
spring through late fall.  The flowers are followed by yellow to red,
two-seeded berries.

Lighting: Will tolerate a wide range of lighting conditions, from full sun to
partial shade.  

Temperature: In a pot, it can withstand occasional temperatures into the
40'sF and does not appear to be harmed by a light frost.  However, as a
tropical, or semi-tropical, (not sure which) it would probably be best to not
expose it to temperatures below 50F.

Watering: As a south Texas native, the Anacua is drought tolerant and should
be allowed to dry out just a bit between waterings.  As with most bonsai, it
should not be allowed to become bone dry.

Feeding:  During the growing season, I alternate 20-20-20 and 15-30-15
fertilizers once a week.  

Repotting: These are fast growers and in warm climates could need repotting
every 1-2 years.  I have repotted Anacuas in the spring, fall, and heat of
the summer.  If I repot during the summer, the tree is defoliated at the same
time.  As usual, the tree should be sited in a protected area until
recovering from the root pruning process.  Thicker roots appear to be very
flexible but really aren't and will snap easily.

Styling:  Their natural growth habit is as a "broom" style with a thick,
straight, fluted trunk.  However, they are suited for most any upright style
and make very nice literati.  They have a strong apical tendency and must be
continually pinched.  Although they will readily bud back on old wood, even
if cut back to a bare trunk, so far I have been unable to promote any fine
ramification.  The branches are very stiff and any wiring should be done just
as new branches begin to lignify.  Styling by directional pruning is much
safer.

Propagation: By seed.  These germinate so readily that I have never planted
any, I just collect seedlings from my yard throughout the year.

Pests etc:  The only pest I've noticed is leaf miners.

I have only been working with this species for a few years so am still
learning how to deal with it.  I think it definitely has a place in bonsai,
it forms a mature-looking bark at a very young age, adapts well to pot
culture, the leaves reduce, and the branches have a very angular growth
pattern.

Although I don't have any details, the tree can be successfully grown in more
northern climates.  I once spoke to a gentleman from Illinois who has
collected a number of Anacuas from south Texas.

As always, this post may be used in the Tree Care FAQ.

Rick 
S-most, Tx
=================================================================

Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 23:43:50 -0700
From: Dom Savage 

Sorry bout the delay, been having probs with my server


On Thu, 3 Oct 1996, Robert F Caine wrote:

> Ehretia sp.

> Lighting: Likes a bright position (1000 Lux), but only about an
> hour of direct sunlight daily.
Mine have always been fine receiving more light than that, though
intensity seems more important than for how long, in my experience
anyway.

>
> Temperature: Keep between 60-72F in winter.  In the summer,
> protect from extreme heat.  Ehretia does not like draughts.
Depending as to the size, age and strength of the tree it's moving them
that can have a dramatic effect in a major loss of leaves, purely
temporary though as they grow back in a few weeks, gets you worried at
first though... =0)

> Watering: Keep well watered, reducing watering only slightly in
> winter.  Never allow Ehretia to stand in water, or allow the
> soil to dry out completely.  Frequent misting will discourage
> spider mites.
>
> Styling:  Prune new shoots after six to eight leaves have
> appeared.  The leaves are tiny enough that leaf pruning should
> not be necessary.  Can be wired any time during the growing
> season, but it is generally styled through pruning alone.  Wire
> should not be left on over three months.  Its small leaves and
> fine branch ramification make it ideal for miniature bonsai.
Depends, I've got some with really quite big leaves, though I haven't had
the chance to try leaf pruning on them yet to see if this has any
affect...

>
> Pests etc.: Aphids, scale, chlorosis, mealy-bugs, snails.  Red spider
> mites find this plant a special treat, and will attack it over any other
> plants in the area.  Unfortunately, Fukien tea is very sensitive to
> insecticides, and Diazinon will kill the tree.  Use the weakest insecticide
> possible that will address a particular problem, or if possible, employ
> predator insects.
If you can believe this, i recently just tried shampoo, to get rid of what
I *think* were red spider mites, i didn't really study them that much, i
didn't have any washing up liquid or soap or insecticide at hand, so
filled a basin with luke warm water and a small amount of shampoo, I
hasten to add this was for normal hair with a built in light conditioner
and so cannot guarantee for any other kinds (if anyone wants further
details, I'll give brand and type.. =0) ).  This seems to have done the
trick as i've not seen any since...

The only other thing I'd add is that it blooms fairly easily, but needs
the right kind of exposition to produce any kinds of berries...

That's about it though...
Dom

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